If you define how much a ball hooks as the size of the angle of the directional change as the ball turns toward the pocket, then the release of the bowler is everything. If, however, you define the amount of hook as how many boards are covered from the laydown point to the breakpoint and back to the pocket, then when the ball hooks determines how much the ball hooks.
The problem with this second definition is that when a ball hooks also determines when it begins to lose energy. The life of a single strike shot in bowling is a lot like our lives as human beings: from the time we are born, we begin a process that ends with our death. Once the ball starts to hook, its loss of energy also begins. It is our job to delay the start of that process so the ball will retain maximum energy through the pins.
This job is made more difficult by the use of confusing terminology when discussing bowling balls. Calling balls “weak” or “strong” is counter-productive. Understanding the elements that contribute to how aggressive a particular ball is, is paramount.
I did some research on the manufacturer’s websites and found some very interesting differences between them, particularly in the way they classify their own bowling balls. Following are links to several manufacturers’ sites along with a brief analysis of how they are set up in terms of the length and strength.
I have chosen several websites that illustrate different ways manufacturers approach marketing their bowling balls. If I left out your preferred company, I apologize in advance. Unfortunately or, fortunately for us, there are so many bowling ball manufacturers today that including every one is just not feasible. This article was composed during September of 2014, so the examples cited are from that time frame.
When you first get to the Roto Grip home page and click on the Balls tab at the top of the page, you are given an overview of the entire line, with a sample from each category: HP 4 Line, HP 3 Line, ...
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